How to Train Your Dog to Go Pee

Medium
2-6 Weeks
General

Introduction

Bringing a new puppy home is exciting. They can also be exhausting. New puppies are awake a lot during the night, need to be trained, need to be socialized, and need to know the best place to use the potty. You may train your dog to eliminate in one spot such as a pee pad within your house or one special area in your yard. Alternatively, your goal may just be to teach your dog to tell you she needs to go outside and let her roam the yard on her own until she is satisfied. In the whirlwind of having a new dog, whether it is a new puppy or an older dog who needs to be retrained, house training tops the list of things your dog must know.

Defining Tasks

House training is about praise, love, and repetition. The level of frustration can be high if you are not patient, are intolerant of accidents, or are not taking the time your puppy needs to learn this important skill. It is important to know if you have a puppy, they can usually hold their bladder for about one hour for every month he is old. So, a four-month-old puppy can typically go about four hours without having to pee. However, smaller dogs may need less time in between visits to the potty. Excited dogs may need to visit outside before the magic hour per month time is up. And as your dog is learning what it feels like to have to eliminate and recognize the actions that go with it, you may find him telling you right away without warning. House training is not a difficult task, but the time you put into it these first few weeks will truly be the determinant of how long it will take you and your puppy to succeed.

Getting Started

You will need a few things depending on how you would like to train your puppy.

  • Treats for rewarding good behavior.
  • If you would like to train your puppy to use a bell to let you know she needs to go outside, you will need that device from the start.
  • Time, patience, and commitment will be required.

Remember to ask your dog often if she needs to go potty before she does so in your house.

Your young puppy will need to go at least once, if not two or three times, in the middle of the night so be prepared to lose a little bit of sleep or increase your coffee intake for a few weeks.

The Bell Communication Method

ribbon-method-3
Most Recommended
1 Vote
Step
1
Hanging bell
Hanging a bell close to the door you wish your dog to use to go outside at a level appropriate for your dog so she can signal you when she needs to go outside. Your dog will want to nudge the bell with her nose or ring the bell with her paws. However, before you hang the bell, introduce it to her first. Introduce the bell to your dog by sitting on the floor near the door with her and showing it to her.
Step
2
Bell does more
Allowing her to sniff the bell, give her a treat every time her nose touches it. Continue showing her the bell, only this time ring the bell so she can hear the noise it makes. As you continue to show her the bell, every time her nose touches it, and she makes the bell ring, give her a treat. Do not treat if she only touches the bell but does not make it ring.
Step
3
Ring the bell
When she is able to ring the bell every time you show it to her, begin to place her treats outside the door where she can see them. Showing her the hanging bell again encourage her to ring it. When she rings the bell, open the door, allowing her to receive her treat.
Step
4
Potty and bell
As you are bell training, watch for signs that she may have to go potty. Each time you take her out to go potty, point to the bell and encourage her to ring it. When she rings the bell, open the door and let her go outside to go potty.
Step
5
Reward
If she goes potty after ringing the bell, reward her.
Step
6
Repeat
Each time she goes to the door to be let outside, point to the bell, encouraging her to ring the bell before you open the door to let her out.
Step
7
Practice
Getting her used to the bell may take several days. Getting her to associate the bell with going outside to use the potty may take several more days. Be patient with her and show her the bell every time.
Step
8
Expectations
Leaving the bell at the door, continue to point to it every time she needs to go outside. Eventually, your dog will ring the bell on her own to let you know she needs to go potty outside.
Recommend training method?

The Same Spot Each Time Method

ribbon-method-1
Effective
0 Votes
Step
1
Introduce idea
You can teach your dog to go potty in the same place. This will protect your yard from urine damage and keep the clean-up responsibilities confined to one area. Choose a space specifically for your dog's potty needs. This area should be free of distractions and kept clean.
Step
2
Puppy's age
Keeping in mind your dog's bladder can only stay full for about an hour for every month of their age, take him to his specific area and use a verbal cue such as "go potty".
Step
3
Stay and treat
Keep your dog in that area until he eliminates. Offer your pup a reward in the form of a treat and praise. If you are trying to train your dog to go in one spot, bear in mind you may only want to offer the reward if he uses that spot.
Step
4
Next time
Carry on with your day, allowing your dog to play and rest. Before the time of one hour per month old passes, take your dog back outside to his special potty area.
Step
5
Command
Using your command words such as “go potty,” leave your dog for a few minutes in his area and wait for him to pee. The more your dog uses this area, the more the area will smell like him and remind him that this is his special potty place. However, be sure to keep it clean because if left with more than one pile of stool, your dog may begin to refuse the area and will want to go elsewhere.
Step
6
Reward
Reward your dog for good behavior and repeat the steps above.
Step
7
Know your dog
Pay attention to your dog during normal activities and watch his body language. Your puppy may spin around, pace, or wag their behind a little more when he has to eliminate. Knowing these signs will help you to get your dog to his potty place within an appropriate time.
Step
8
Accidents happen
If your puppy has an accident, clean it up quickly without punishing the dog. Take your dog to his special potty place and repeat the steps above rewarding him if he eliminates again.
Recommend training method?

The Crate and Potty Method

ribbon-method-2
Effective
0 Votes
Step
1
Using a crate
If your puppy is using a crate for his safe spot and sleeping spot, avoid putting puppy pads inside the crate if you can get him outside frequently. Every hour, take your dog out of the crate and with keywords such as “let's go potty.” Take him outside to sniff around your yard.
Step
2
Reward
When he eliminates, praise him with verbal praise and a treat.
Step
3
When to go out
Remember your puppy will need to go out frequently. Take him out every hour repeating the steps above. After meals, take your dog outside with your keyword phrase, “let's go potty” about 10 minutes after your dog has eaten.
Step
4
Out of the crate
If your dog is out of the crate, keep him close to you, watching for typical signs that he may need to go potty such as pacing, circling, or wagging his tail more than normal. If you are putting your dog back in the crate after he eliminates, offer verbal praises. Be sure to come back often to avoid accidents within the crate.
Step
5
Every time
Each time you take the dog out of the crate, put him outside immediately. As your dog ages, the time spent in the crate between visits outside can lengthen to two hours or more.
Step
6
Maturing pup
Eventually, with age and practice, your dog should be able to stay in your house or his crate without accidents for a full day if you are away from the house. Be sure to reward your dog for positive behavior every time he uses the potty outside as he is training.
Recommend training method?
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Written by Stephanie Plummer

Published: 11/29/2017, edited: 01/08/2021

Success Stories and Training Questions

Training Questions and Answers

Question
Elle
Labrador Retriever
10 Weeks
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Elle
Labrador Retriever
10 Weeks

My puppy is 10 weeks old & is always biting. We can’t even pet her. We give her toys to chew on but continue to bite us. Please help!

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
1115 Dog owners recommended

Hello Heidi, Check out the article I have linked below on puppy biting. I would start with the bite inhibition method but also start teaching Leave It from the Leave It method at the same time. Leave It will take practice to teach so use the Bite Inhibition method immediately while working on that. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-shih-tzu-puppy-to-not-bite Also, work on getting puppy used to touch and handling. Use puppy’s daily meal kibble to do this. Gently touch an area of puppy's body while feeding a piece of food. Touch an ear and give a treat. Touch a paw and give a treat. Hold her collar and give a treat. Touch her tail gently and give a treat. Touch her belly, her other paws, her chest, shoulder, muzzle and every other area very gently and give a treat each time. Keep these times calm and fun for pup. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Elle
Labrador Retriever
8 Weeks
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Elle
Labrador Retriever
8 Weeks

How do I get the puppy to pee on command outside

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
257 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Here is detailed information on potty training, as well as crate training if you decide to use a crate to help with potty training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Question
Dicky
Chihuahua
1 Year
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Dicky
Chihuahua
1 Year

I've tried all these methods and nothing works. He goes where ever he wants especially kitchen and bathroom. I always have puppy pads in one place and he will only poop on them. Please help, I'm so frustrated with him anymore. MICHELLE

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
1115 Dog owners recommended

Hello Michelle, If you are wanting pup to go potty on an inside potty, I would switch to using a disposable real grass pad and follow the Exercise Pen method from the article I have linked below. This method limits pup's freedom out of the pen only to times after pup has already gone potty on the pad in the exercise pen. The exercise pen means that you don't have to stand next to pup for an hour waiting for pup to use the pad. Exercise Pen method: https://wagwalking.com/training/litter-box-train-a-chihuahua-puppy If pup decides to go potty on the floor next to the pad instead of on it, then I would purchase multiple pads and cover the entire floor of the exercise pen with them for two weeks. After two weeks, if pup is going on the grass pads more quickly when returned there, then I would slowly remove the extra ones, taking one extra one a week, so long as pup continues to go potty on the correct one. Pup might also be marking in your home, if pup is going potty or lifting a leg not too long after going potty on the pad or outside. If that's the case, in addition to the above potty training, I would also purchase a belly band and keep pup tethered to you while pup is out of the pen. Whenever pup attempts to mark (but can't successfully due to the belly band), I would clap your hands loudly three times while calmly saying "Ah Ah", just to surprise pup. When pup does go potty in the correct location, praise and give a treat, so pup understands that it's not going potty in front of you that's the problem but doing it in the wrong location. If you want pup to learn to go potty outside, I would use this method and the Crate Training method or Tethering method found there. The most important part, is that pup doesn't get any freedom out of the crate unless pup went potty in the last three hours outside. Since pup is older, instead of a potty trip every hour, you can do every 2-3 hours. Using the belly band and tether if pup is also marking when pup isn't crated. https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Be prepared to stay consistent with this for six months. Too much freedom too soon is often what most frustrates potty training efforts and makes it harder in the long run. Real grass pad brands - also on amazon: www.freshpatch.com www.doggielawn.com www.porchpotty.com You can use a pee pad or doggie litter box instead of the grass pads and follow the same methods, but I recommend the grass pad because many dogs who struggle with confusing the fabric of pee pads and the fabric of carpet and rugs, need something that's more distinctly different, and the texture and smell of real grass tends to be an easier transition than a plastic potty tray or doggie litter box when looking for a non-pee pad option. Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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Question
Otto
Doberman Pinscher
2 Months
0 found helpful
Question
0 found helpful
Otto
Doberman Pinscher
2 Months

Otto is 56 days old. He’ll be two months on Jan 20th. He is intelligent, he already knows some commands like sit, shake and come. We’re working on stay before I put his food down.
I’m trying to house train him but it’s been difficult. But what bothers me the most is his biting. He gets worked up and starts growling when I say No. He used to stop but now he doesn’t obey. He bites my hands and pants sometimes when we’re walking. He stares at me after I say no and won’t obey to sit or to go to his bed. Also, whenever i’m in bed he tries to get up and cries a lot it’s annoying. I’ve let him sleep with me sometimes but he takes his day naps on his bed. Sometimes on my lap. When he’s trying to get up on the bed he doesn’t obey either.

Alisha Smith
Alisha S., Dog Trainer
257 Dog owners recommended

Hello! Here is detailed information on potty training, as well as crate training if you decide to use a crate to help with potty training. Potty training: Know Your Pup. As you spend time with your puppy, learn your puppy’s love language. Just as some people prefer gifts, touch, or time spent together, puppies can be the same way. Some puppies love praise or pets, while others prefer treats. As you get to know your puppy, consider what reward your puppy loves the most. Create a Daily Schedule. It is best to have a routine for your puppy. A schedule helps them understand when to eat, play, and “go to the bathroom.” Your puppy should go out frequently and the routine should be the same every time. When? Start the day by taking your puppy outside, and repeating based on age and ability. They should also go out after napping, chewing, playing, and within 10 to 15 minutes of eating. Although some puppies can sleep for seven hours, it is important to set an alarm and take your pup out during the night. When you do, don’t make a fuss about it. Quietly take them outside with minimal stimulation and light. Praise them if they go to the bathroom and gently return them to their bed or crate. You don’t want them to get stimulated and ready to play in the middle of the night! As you get to know your puppy, you will become aware of their individual habits. Click here to learn more about house training schedules for puppies. Where? Take your puppy to a specific area to urinate or defecate. Be consistent. You can create an area by using urine-soaked paper or bowel movements to help create an aroma to stimulate your puppy. How? Take your puppy out on a leash so they can focus on the desired activity. This will help prevent them from wandering off to play. Once your puppy is in the selected area, use your verbal cue, such as “Hurry Up,” “Poopies,” “Go tinkle,” or any phrase your puppy responds to. What? Know the signs that your puppy has to go to the bathroom. Every animal may have a different “I gotta go” gesture, which often include restlessness, sniffing around, circling, scratching at the door, barking, and, eventually, squatting. At the first sign that your pup has to go, calmly and quickly take them outside to their bathroom spot. Deal with Accidents. Accidents are a normal part of house training a puppy. What to Do If you see your puppy in the process of urinating or defecating inappropriately, calmly and quickly interrupt them in the act. Tell them to stop (either by a jarring sound or command), and immediately take them to an appropriate location for elimination. After your puppy goes to the bathroom, lavishly praise them and offer a treat. Thoroughly clean up accidents, so your puppy is not attracted to this area again. Create a consistent feeding and watering schedule. Depending on the age of your puppy, they will eat three to four times a day. A consistent feeding routine can create a regular bathroom schedule. Take away water about 2 hours before bedtime. Learn more about ideal dog schedules here. What NOT to Do Don’t punish your puppy when they have an accident. At that point, it is too late. When a puppy has an accident in the house and they walk away, within seconds they have already forgotten about what they did. Taking them to the scene of the crime and yelling and/or rubbing their nose in it does not help and, in fact, can harm your puppy! Supervise. The best thing you can do is to prevent accidents and the best way to do this is to supervise your puppy at all times. You can tether your puppy to your waist with a five or six-foot leash and carefully observe them for signs that they need to go to the bathroom. If you can’t supervise, then crate or confine your puppy. The more accidents your puppy has in the house, the more confusing it will be for them and this can delay house training. Reward, Reward, Reward. It is important to give your puppy a reward for their good behavior. This can be for commands such as sitting and coming to you, or for appropriately eliminating outside. In a puppy, a reward can be a couple kibbles of puppy food or a treat, such as a small piece of meat. The treat should be exciting for them and only available as a result of good behavior. Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age, temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast. Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at their leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away. If yours isn't one of them: Bring them over to the crate and talk to them in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your dog and frighten them. Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that's OK; don't force them to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If they aren’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days. Step 2: Feed your dog meals in the crate After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding them their regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If they remain reluctant to enter, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed them, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat their meal, you can close the door while they’re eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as they finish their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until they’re staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If they begin to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving them in the crate for a shorter time period. If they do whine or cry in the crate, don’t let them out until they stop. Otherwise, they'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they'll keep doing it. Step 3: Practice with longer crating periods After your dog is eating their regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call them over to the crate and give them a treat. Give them a command to enter, such as "crate." Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give them the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time and then let them out. Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave them in the crate and the length of time you're out of sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving them crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting them sleep there at night. This may take several days or weeks. Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put them in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave them with a few safe toys in the crate. Vary the moment during your "getting ready to leave" routine that you put your dog in the crate. Although they shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate them anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give them a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to them in an enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing their anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so they don't associate crating with being left alone. Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should also initially be kept nearby so they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. Potential problems Whining: If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate. If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety: Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures.

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Jaanu
Labrador Retriever
3 Months
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Jaanu
Labrador Retriever
3 Months

Pee training

Caitlin Crittenden
Caitlin Crittenden
Dog Trainer
1115 Dog owners recommended

Hello Sampreeth, Check out the Crate Training and Tethering methods from the article I have linked below. I recommend the Crate Training method or a combination of the Crate Training method and Tethering method. Crate Training method and Tethering method: https://wagwalking.com/training/train-a-german-shepherd-puppy-to-poop-outside Best of luck training, Caitlin Crittenden

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